Top 10 Best 3D Printers for Big Sale in October (Up to 50%)

A few years ago, it’s unbelievable for people to purchase a proper 3D printer with just a few hundred dollars. And the possible thing is that you could get the only cheap 3D printer around was a RepRap 3D printer which might cost you $500, and even then it could be unreliable.

But things changed a lot now! We are spoiled with so many excellent, low-cost printers from innovative companies like Creality, Anycubic, Flashforge, and other brands across the globe.

The 3D printers in this buying guide are all the top 10 Best 3D Printers for Big Sale in October (Up to 50%) this Halloween month! Those are reliability, ease of use, price-performance ratio, and a range of other factors.

👍Our Pick: Ender-2 Pro with 40% Off Deal+10$ Coupon-108$ Only

Check the current price here. (An extra $10 coupon code: CULTS2PRO)

• Build Volume: 165 x 165 x 180 mm
• Supported filament: PLA/TPU/WOOD
• Leveling method: Manual leveling

Ender-2 Pro 3D Printer
from: CREALITY

If you are a beginner, and buying a 3d printer for a specific purpose, or you already have a 3d printer and need another one to sit in the corner and make parts, this is a good machine. If you do not have anything specific in mind and want to print anything and everything you can think of, you are going to outgrow this one fast. Setup for this printer is SUPER easy and takes around 15-20 minutes for assembly. I recommend watching an assembly video over the manual.

Note it is small, so you will be limited on what you can print, but still, it is a great and cheap entry point to the world of 3D printing.

Halot Lite Resin 3D Printer with 45% Off Deal-$318 Only

Check the current price here.

• LCD Pixel: 3840*2400
• LCD screen: 8.9″ monochrome
• Light Source: Integral Light Source
• Printing size: 192*120*200mm
• XY-axis precision: 0.05mm
• Printing speed: 1-4s/layer
• Layer Thickness: 0.01-0.2mm

HALOT-LITE Resin 3D Printer
from: CREALITY

The Lightweight Version Of Halot Sky.  The LITE is set to operate using Creality’s new proprietary optical system, that’s capable of printing parts with a uniform light density of more than 80%.

The HALOT-LITE’s build volume and 8.9-inch display, meanwhile, are the same as that of the HALOT-SKY. Halot Lite is powered by Cortex’s impressive A53 processor, with computing and graphics power that far surpasses that of other LCD 3D printers.

Halot Lite equids the large touch screen and simple user interface to make it accessible to users of all skill levels, while its compatibility with the firm’s HALOT-BOX software, means that even novices can easily start slicing right from the get-go.

Halot One Resin 3D Printer with 50% Off Deal-$144 Only

Check the current price here.

• Self-developed High-Performance Mainboard
• 6-inch monochrome LCD of 2K HD 2560×1620 resolution
• Efficient Cooling and Filtration System
• Creality New Slicing Software HALOT BOX
• Precision Z-axis Module

HALOT-ONE Resin 3D Printer
from: CREALITY

I think this printer offers amazing value among resin printers. The hardware is extremely solid for a machine in this price range and it has some very important upgrades over many similarly priced resin printers on the market today.

Pros:

• The all-metal body is a nice feel and feature that you don’t see in many printers currently and definitely not in this price range.
• Leveling is a breeze, you simply loosen the 4 side screws, push home, tighten the 4 side screws, done.
• Parts feel pretty durable (screws, knobs, z-rail, etc)
• I’ve had only successful prints (except one where it was entirely my fault).
• Can use any resin you want
• Native ChiTuBox support.

Cons:

• The manual isn’t very useful.
• The control screen stopped responding to touch once, even after turning it off and on again. I left it off for a few hours and turned it back on and it’s been fine since.
• There aren’t any included instructions for cleaning or post-processing. You have to look those up online.

Ender-7 3D Printer with 40% Off Deal – $293 Only

Check the current price here.

• Printing size: 250 × 250 × 300 mm
• Printing precision: ±0.1 mm
• Printing layer thickness: 0.1mm-0.4mm
• Printing material: PLA/ABS/PETG

Ender-7 3D Printer
from: CREALITY

BEWARE the machine was set to 230V out of the box, you need to switch the power input to 115V for North America. The motors won’t move if not switched to the correct power input,

This printer is FAST… It’s hard to go back to 50mm/s after trying the 250mm/s printing on this machine. The top-speed print quality is totally acceptable for larger models. For small models that have more details, I tune down to 100mm/s and still get great details, because you don’t save much time on small models anyway.

The installation was straightforward as the box came with all the tools needed, even extra ones for future maintenance. A big role of white PLA filament also came with the box, which I didn’t expect.

The glass bed is certainly heavy, here is a trick to get it leveled – holding the bed up while fastening all the screws. This really helps to really tighten the joints and ensure long-term stability.

Ender-3 S1 Pro 3D Printer Upgrade Combo with Laser Engraving Module – $85 Off

Check the current price here.

• Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 270 mm
• Printing Speed: 150mm/s at the maximum
• Printing Precision: ±0.1 mm
• Layer Height: 0.1-0.4 mm
• Build Surface: spring steel PEI
• Extrusion Force: 80 N
• Leveling Mode: CR Touch Automatic Leveling
• Motherboard: 32-bit silent motherboard

I was amazed at how quick and easy it was to assemble. right off the bat I started printing and did not stop for a full month. I used PLA PLA+ PETG PLA Sparkle and Silk Filaments. And every time, clean beautiful prints without a glitch, and removing the prints from the bed is so easy, just wait for it to cool and the prints remove themselves. I had quite a few printers before, I also built some, always having issues and problems, always tinkering. once you set up the bed leveling and Z axis, this one just keeps going and going and going. Awesome!

I would definitely recommend the S1 Pro for beginner hobbyists. As with all Ender 3 printers, you need to do some research to get a handle on the most common issues (bed leveling, Z-axis offset). It is a bit pricey compared to the original Ender 3, but it’s worth it. It’s easy to set up, prints out of the box, you don’t need to do much more tinkering and the print quality is great. I’d highly recommend this if you’re looking for a new printer, especially for all the upgrades this model comes pre-assembled with!

CR-30 Batch Print Models 3D Printer with $807 Only

Check the current price here.

• Print Size: 200*170*∞mm
• Printing Precision:±0.1mm
• Layer thickness: 0.1mm-0.4mm
• Printing filament: PLA/TPU/PETG

CR-30 3D Printer
from: CREALITY

The 3DPrintMill (Creality CR-30) is a cross between a traditional 3D printer and a conveyer belt. With its conveyor-belt style print bed and 45° printing angle, this innovative belt printer allows you to print continuously, which makes printing long props in one-piece and batch printing possible. In addition, you can also print perfect unsupported overhangs with the printer. If you are running a 3D Print Farm to do mass production or if you are a cosplay enthusiast looking for a printer to print the costumes, the CR-30/3D PrintMill is definitely worth trying.

Initially it’s tricky to get this to work properly…to level it, to make it adhere properly etc…but once you do it’s great. Make sure to install the custom firmware (google it) which it includes the looping GCODE support and then run the leveling loop GCODE, that made a lot of difference for initial leveling. Also, make sure to use IdeaMaker with the NAK3D profile which prints a brimming line to promote initial adhesion.

Pros:

It prints somewhat slower than a regular Cartesian printer, in part because the default speeds are low, and in part because the bottom “wall” is separately slowed down.

Leveling is BIZARRE. There’s no other way to say it. I did what I usually do (home onto a feeler gauge, set home offset, then jog the head to get the bed level) and… Bird nest. What worked for me was to level the bed L/R, then set the Y stop so the nozzle just barely drags on the belt. Then print something, and if the first layer isn’t sticking, move the belt up.

Overhangs away from the nozzle are a mess. This means all the cool things your download that has a chamfer on the base are ugly.

The first layer is one side of the print, so anything without a straight starting edge sticks poorly.

Bowden extrusion, which limits flexible filaments, so have a backup. You could probably convert to direct drive without impacting the print speed since default is really slow.

Cons:

Parts remove themselves from the bed. I’m used to having to pry stuff off, so jogging Z 500mm to have the parts fall into a bucket doesn’t get old.

I can’t crash the Z-axis into a part. (My Hictop is broken right now from running the hotend into the top of a part.

Repeat markers. Start a print for one part, then tell the printer “make six of these, would you?” and it does.

Overhangs!! Left/right it’ll do more than 45 degrees off vertical. Toward the nozzle, it’ll go horizontal.

Giant parts! I’ve only gone up to a foot long, but it’s limitless.

ELEGOO Mars 2 Pro Mono LCD Resin 3D Printer with $81 Off- Only $169

Check the current price here.

• System: EL3D-3.0.2
• Slicer Software: ChituBox
• Technology: UV Photocuring
• Layer Thickness: 0.01-0.2mm
• Printing Speed: 30-50mm/h
• Z Axis Accuracy: 0.00125mm
• XY Resolution: 0.05mm(1620*2560)
• Build Volume: 5.08in(L)*3.15in(W)*6.30in(H) 129mm(L)*80mm(W)*160mm(H)
• Light Source: UV Integrated Light (wavelength 405nm)

Pros:

• The Mars 2 Pro product absolutely stunning 3D prints.
• It is SOLIDLY built.
• They provide everything you need with the printer (except the resin).
• Their resin works well.

Cons:

• The printer is a bit temperamental.
• The documentation is written by the same guys that write Japanese stereo manuals.
• Prints -will- fail. There is as much art as there is a practice in producing prints.
• Setup is a real pain.
• The full setup is required for EVERY print., a huge pain, but NECESSARY. Fill those build plates! Save LCD cycles!
• Cleanup is another real pain. Wear gloves. The resin is toxic. Clean up WELL. It matters.
• You have to do the full cleanup after every print.
• Elegoo Tech Support is super sparing with words. English isn’t their language. Be patient.

ELEGOO Mars 3 Resin 3D Printer with $111 Off-Only $209

Check the current price here.

• Product model: MARS 3
• System: EL3D-3.0.1
• Slicer Software: ChituBox
• Technology: MSLA 3D Stereolithography
• Layer Thickness: 0.01-0.2mm
• Printing Time: 1.5-3s
• Z Axis Accuracy: 0.00125mm
• XY Resolution: 0.035mm(4098*2560)
• Build Volume: 5.64in(L)*3.52in(W)*6.89in(H) 143.43mm(L)*89.6mm(W)*175mm(H)
• Light Source: UV Integrated Light (wavelength 405nm)
• Languages: Chinese English Japanese Dutch Korean French German Russian Italian Spanish Turkish Portuguese
• Connectivity: USB
• Weight: 11.5lbs(5.2kg)
• Operation: 3.5 Inch Touch Screen
• Power Requirements: 100-240V 50/60Hz
• Printer Dimensions: 8.93in (L)*8.93in (W)*17.28in (H) / 22.7cm (L)*22.7cm (W)*43.85cm (H)

Mars 3 is ELEGOO’s first ultra-4k high-precision, compacted-size desktop LCD resin 3D printer. It uses a 6.66-inch ultra-4K high-resolution monochrome LCD, an upgraded COB UV light source structure, and a new release film 2.0 for printing.

Pros:

• LCD screen protector out of the box
• 4k resolution – I printed some TINY things with one of the first prints, one being a pirate girl that has a tiny pirate teddy bear on her back, and the details it brought out blow the Mono away.
• Looks nice
• Factory screen protector for the push button screen – this is a weird Pro, I will admit, but I didn’t take the film off of the touch screen for the buttons. I can still push the buttons through it, and this will keep the screen from getting mucky if there’s ever a drip of resin that gets on it!
• The metal area around the LCD – will make clean-up easy if some spills, even if it cures, can just be scraped off and cleaned.

Cons:

• Plastic base – I don’t know how I managed it, but a few drips of resin went down one of the sides of the printer already and cured there before I even noticed it. With having a plastic base, this will never come off.

FlashForge 3D Printer Creator Pro with $10 Off

Check the current price here.

• Printing Technology: FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication).
• Build Volume: 227 L X 148 W X 150 H mm; 8.9 X 5.8 X 5.9 in.
• Layer Resolution: 100~500 microns; 0.0039~0.019 in.
• Positioning Precision: XY: 11 microns [0.0004 in]; Z: 2.5 microns [0.0001 in].
• Extruder Quantity: Two.

Creator Pro
from: Flashforge

The cons:

• Filament spool holders don’t fit most 3rd party spools.
• The filament that came with my printer ABS (red and white) was a very cheap filament, don’t bother messing with it. Prints come out much better with hatch box filament ABS.
• The wires and filament tubes that go to the extruders are floppy, you will need to print out some tube/wire supports on Thingiverse to fix this.
• It gets old having to transfer every print you do to the printer on an SD card. In this day and age, you would think these companies would just let you transfer the file directly to the printer. There are 2 options for remotely transferring your x3g/gcode print files to your printer. Toshiba makes an SD card that is called Flashair, it is a wifi SD card that you can set up to transfer files to your printer. This works fine but I still wanted something better, option 2 is to buy a Raspberry Pi, and an SD card, and install Octoprint on it. Now you have a web interface to your printer so you can upload your print files. Octoprint requires the GPX plunging for it to work with a Flashforge printer as Flashforge printers do not print from gcode files like most, it uses an x3g file.

Pros:

• Dual extruders are nice being able to not switch spools every time you want to print a different color. Also does a nice job printing a dual-color print. I have found for most dual-color prints to turn out well you need to also print an ooze shield. This is a thin wall that is printed around your part to prevent the extruders that aren’t currently being used from oozing plastic on your part as it passes over the part. The wall catches the ooze. Thus Simplify3D printing software is the best at this!!!!
• Sailfish firmware, I love the fact that this printer has an open firmware that allows me to tweak, add to, and invent to my heart’s desire.
• The printer comes with a unique print surface. It has a mat that sticks to the heated bed and it helps ABS stick to the bed well. As ABS tends to warp and is more difficult to print with. The mat seems to work well, however, after about 30 prints, mine started to not work as well. So you are either faced with old fashion methods to help ABS stick better or replacing the blue printer mat, the printer does come with a couple of extra mats.
• Printer Z resolution is good, it can print down to .1 mm, however for the part to come looking good it helps if the part is small and the active extruder never leaves the part surface. What you find out is that for most prints it is unpractical to print at .1 mm. Due to the added time of printing the part, the percentage of a good part being printed lowers, and the extruder not in use will catch the print and mess it up on occasion. I find that printing at .2 works great.

ANYCUBIC Photon M3 Max Resin 3D Printer with $260 Off- Only $1039

Check the current price here.

• Slicer software: ANYCUBIC Photon Workshop (free)
• Light source: Parallel matrix (LED lights x 84)
• Control panel: 4.3″ resistive touch-control
• Z-axis: Dual guide rails
• Build plate: Laser-engraved platform
• Anycubic Auto Resin Filler module: Intelligent resin filling and stopping
• Screen protector: Replaceable anti-scratch film
• Leveling: 4-point manual leveling
• Printing speed: ≤ 50mm/hr
• Printing volume: 14.7 L/498.5 oz.
• Printing size: :30.0 x 29.8 x 16.4 cm 13.0 x 11.7 x 6.5in. (HDW)

The Photon 4k is a magnificent piece of machinery. Many printer companies such as Prusa, Makerbot, Creatbot, etc. all have high prices and somewhat competitive products to offer. The main reason I say “somewhat” is due to the fact that this resin printer performs much better than most of multi-thousand-dollar resin printers. The base unit may be constructed in China, but I assure you that the quality is out of this world. All of the moving parts, printer bed, base, and overall frame are constructed from what feels and appears to be aluminum. The paint finish on the parts is spotless, no paint splotches or imperfections can be seen. The menu screen is easy to navigate, and everything is made simple, yet it can achieve such an advanced product.